7 Things You Didn’t Know About 55 Broadway

55 Broadway, the hulking stone mass above St James’s Park tube, is the historic heart of Transport for London, dating back to 1929.

55 Broadway

As part of Hidden London’s tours of (usually-closed-to-the-public) transport sites, I got to have a nosey inside. Here are my favourite tidbits…

1. It’s London’s First Skyscraper

Now, before you question this statement, let’s talk about definitions. Sure, 55 Broadway was never the tallest building in London, even when it was first built.

Here’s a handy graphic:

55 Broadway

But the term skyscraper refers to the way it was built; stone encasing a steel frame, the technique used to reach the dizzying heights of New York’s skyline.

55 Broadway

Above is a plan of the ground floor, but in the bottom left corner you can see the steel frame in question.

The more obvious evidence inside though; lifts to reach the upper floors!

55 Broadway

The only downfall of this is that you don’t get a glorious sweeping staircase. But don’t worry, you’ll get a staircase fix later…

2. The Sculptures Caused Outrage

When the building was unveiled in 1929, designed by Charles Holden. It wasn’t the architecture itself that prompted criticism. But the details.

In particular, the works of Night (below) and Day by Jacob Epstein. In all their naked, modernist glory.

55 Broadway

One contemporary critic described it as a “prehistoric blood-sodden cannibal intoning a horrid ritual over a dead victim.”

55 Broadway

Other newspapers advised men not to let women or children see these naked forms. A hilarious anecdote (which I desperately hope is true) is that Epstein had to shave around 2 inches of the young lad’s private parts (in Day above) because when it rained it created a perfectly arched jet of water onto the pavement!

55 Broadway

3. There’s Serious Attention to Detail

Charles Holden, it could be fairly said, was a perfectionist.

The interiors show that as well as being sleek and modern, no expense was spared on the furnishings;

55 Broadway

Bronze doors, travertine marble and walnut panelling all give it the feel of a 1930s luxury cruise liner.

Art Deco features abound, including the star burst motif;

55 Broadway

As well as the more peculiar water fountains on each floor. We were told that the water is from an artesian well under the building. Disappointingly, it’s not fit for human consumption. I think this was only found out after a few years of use!

55 Broadway

A more practical element was the mail sorting systems, post boxes on the doors!

55 Broadway

And then there are the finishing touches, like door handles designed by Holden himself!

55 Broadway

4. It Has London’s Nicest Fire Escape

I’ll say it again. This is a fire escape staircase, y’know the ones that are usually exposed concrete and strip lighting?!

55 Broadway

Yet again, there’s a wealth of pride in design and attention to detail. We have elaborate railings, green chevrons pointing the way down and cheque on the edge of the stairs as a reminder to watch your step!

55 Broadway

5. There’s Plenty Of Tube Geekiness

As you might expect, the HQ of TFL has some geeky transport throwbacks.

Just inside the entrance hall is a machine displaying – in an ideal world – that the trains were all running at regular intervals.

55 Broadway

Each paper disc represents a tube line and they are marked with a ink dot around the edges to show when a train passes through a designated point, showcasing what a reliable service they were running.

There’s also a heritage tube poster, c.1931, before Harry Beck designed the iconic one used today.

55 Broadway

6. The Top Execs Loved Carpet

Like any organisation, the Underground Group (as TFL was first known), was hierarchical. The most snazzy interiors therefore, were reserved for the executives.

And it turns out the top dogs were big fans of jazzy interiors…

55 Broadway

The Executive Dining Club Room 

55 Broadway

7. There’s a Roof Terrace With Spectacular View

Not a huge surprise, I’m sure. But, given that until recently there weren’t many tall buildings in the area, it gives me a chance to share these shots!

55 Broadway
55 Broadway

Today Transport for London still owns the Grade-I listed building, but it’s becoming harder and harder for the building to stay fit for purpose as the head of a huge organisation. They’re looking to repurpose the building in a manner ‘that honours and complements’ its history, so I suppose we ned to simply watch this space!

If you fancy joining a tour you can find out more info here. I recommend signing up to their email list for updates when tickets go on sale.

Have you visited any other top transport sites?

More London Inspiration

  • Christchurch Gardens, Victoria | Look Up London

    History of Christchurch Gardens, Victoria

    Sat alongside the busy Victoria Street, Christchurch Gardens doesn’t seem that historic at first glance. However, scratch the surface and there’s plenty of stories connected to this little green space. In September 2020 the gardens reopened after an extensive 3-year refurbishment by ReardonSmith. Regrettably a......

  • Hunterian Museum, London | Look Up London

    Visit The Hunterian Museum

    The Hunterian Museum, one of London’s best niche museums, reopened last week. Sat within the Royal College of Surgeons on Lincoln’s Inn Fields, it charts the development of surgery and pursuit of medical knowledge through the centuries. If that sounds a bit dry, think again.......

  • Beeston's Almhouses, Peckham | Look Up London

    History of Beeston’s Almshouses, Peckham

    Along Consort Road in Peckham you can admire the quaint-looking Beeston’s almshouses. As well as their charming appearance and characteristic almshouse layout, the aspect that really piqued my interest was the shield of the Girdlers’ Company. You can spot more of these in Farringdon (featured......

  • Visit the Roman Wall under Vine Street | Look Up London

    Visit the Roman Wall under Vine Street

    In early May 2023 a new basement on the eastern edge of the City opened to the public. Having previously written about the developments, I was keen to visit the Vine Street Roman Wall for a closer look. The free museum is inside Emperor House......

  • Frame Food | The Art Nouveau Factory in Southfields | Look Up London

    The Art Nouveau Factory in Southfields

    In Southfields, SW18, you can find a surprising and visually striking building. Today it’s private flats but it used to be a factory. The surprising thing is that it looks nothing like a stereotypical factory. It was built in 1903-4 for Frame Food, a baby......

  • Hospital Chapel, St John and St Elizabeth, St John's Wood

    The Stunning Chapel Hidden in a London Hospital

    St John and St Elizabeth Hospital in St John’s Wood might seem just like any other private hospital. However, open one door along a corridor and you’re in for a treat. You appear to have stepped into Rome! The chapel was built between 1862-3 and......

55 Broadway


Post a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.