Painted Hall Ceiling Tour at the Old Royal Naval College
Over the next two years, Greenwich’s Old Royal Naval College is undergoing an £8.5 million makeover, restoring and conserving the murals of the Painted Hall.
But instead of shutting it off to the public during this time, they’re offering up ceiling tours where you can stand feet away from the mammoth ceiling paintings, painted 1707-26 by Sir James Thornhill.
Up we go!
Although you don’t quite get the Trompe L’oeil effect this close to the paintings, you can’t help but be in awe of how James Thornhill actually created these. It took him 19 years afterall!
But what you lose in perspective is made up for in the hidden details – previously lost in history – that have been uncovered with this new view…
This is the crest of King William II and Queen Mary III, the monarchs on the throne when this was started. Previously they thought it was carved in stone. On closer inspection, they’re now not sure what it’s made of!
Being this close to Mary II the team was finally able to say for certain what was on the end of her royal sceptre; the dove of peace.
As with the West end, the ceiling is full of symbolism. These two ladies represent British rivers; the larger woman in the middle is the River Avon, her modesty partially covered with fishing nets. By her side is the Severn, with Lampreys slithering around her.
Restorer or Vandal?
Getting this close you can see how thin the paint is, look at how the architectural details are showing through the pale flag material here;
The last time the ceiling underwent major restoration was during the 1950s but it’s been touched up by multiple people since its completion in 1726. Each of these restorer have – literally – left their mark.
They simply write their name as a record of their work. Like the subtle addition above. But sometimes they get outlandish; this restorer scribbled their name across the Queen’s chest!
With a painting so stuffed full of figures, there are naturally some interesting stories to go with them. The man in the hat below is John Flamsteed, the First Royal Astronomer.
The piece of paper he’s holding predicts the next solar eclipse, going so far as to write the exact date it will occur. His prediction was correct and Flamsteed must’ve been relieved; this was painted a year before the eclipse happened, an embarrassingly public mistake had he been wrong!
This figure representing Winter was based on a real person; John Worley who was one of the pensioners living here. Aged 90 he’d spent over 70 years at sea and was clearly struggling to adapt to life here, getting in trouble and repeatedly being made ‘a canary’ (having to wear the yellow coats that singled out the naughty retirees).
Then there’s just fanciful figures, where Thornhill must’ve just been amusing himself. My favourite was this cute little cherub blowing bubbles to pass the time.
See the Finished Product
Sadly ceiling tours are now over, but the good news is that’s because restorations are complete! You can see the restored Painted Hall here.
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